Friday, December 10, 2010

Introducing the completed Specialized SX! (SX Part 2)

This is it gang! The completed Specialized SX. Or should I say, completed but not finalized, Specialized SX. The bike is together and ready to ride, but I still  have a few details with the drivetrain to sort out. Namely, installing the new cranks and the new red  (or maybe gold) 34T single chainring up front. (And yes, Joey. I'm finally going to grind down the Truvativ Stylo crankset, so I can run it with the E-13 on the SX).) But these are refinements that can wait till later. For now, she's ready to ride!

The bike weighs in at 34.5 pounds in it's current configuration, which is a little heavier than I anticipated it being. That weight, by the way, is the same as the 2011 Enduro Evo out of the box. And the Enduro has coil suspension front and rear, a double chainring with chainguide and 170mm of travel compared to my 120/100mm of air suspended travel. That's fine by me though because I don't build primerily for light weight, I building for durability and reliability. Of course, I am hoping to get closer to 34lbs even when I've made the last of the changes.What can I tell you, 34 just sounds better than 34.5.






Here is the build as it is now:
1) 2011 Specialized SX Frame with 100mm of travel
2) White Fox 36 RLC Float 160 with Kashima Coat and tapered steerer (Lowered to 120mm)
3) Fox RP23 Rear Shock (Comes stock with the frame from Specialized)
4) Red Hope Pro 2 Hubs with White Sun Ringle Equalizer 31 Rims, DT Swiss 2.0mm Straight Gauge Spokes
5) Specialized Clutch Control Aramid Bead 26x2.30 45/50 Tire front
6) Specialized Eskar Control Aramid Bead 26x2.30 55/65 Rear Tire
7) Sunline VOS1 711 Handlebar
8) Oury Rogue Lock-on Grips
9) Cane Creek S3 1 and 1/8th Headset Upper Assembly
10) Cane Creek XXII 1.5 Headset Lower Assembly
11) Thomson X4 50mm Stem
12) Thomson Elite Seatpost (Comes stock with the frame)
13) Silver Avid Elixir R Brakes (203mm Rotor front and 160mm Rotor on Rear)
12) Red SRAM XO Rear Shifter
13) Red SRAM XO Rear Derailleur (Med Cage)
14) SRAM PG951 Chain
15) RaceFace Diabolus Crankset/BB with 32T Chainring (Soon to be changed)
13) White E-13 LG1+ Chainguide
14) 12-36T Shimano Cassette
15) White Striaghtline Platform Pedals
16) Specialized Avatar 143 Saddle

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

Rainy Day Sunday

I checked the weather report for Sunday and NOAA was calling for 100% chance of heavy rain and 20+ mph winds. That can mean only one thing, dirt jumping season is done and it's time to pull out the big bike. The day before had been absolutely gorgeous, so I figured I might be riding alone on Sunday morning after everyone got their fill on Saturday. Pacific north-westerners are a rugged group, but when the weather first changes from temperate, sunny conditions to cool and wet, it's sometimes hard to make the transition.

I got lucky though and not everyone I know was content to stay inside and sit on the couch. David Waugh and Henry Hartshorn were itching to get outside as much as I was. So, we made plans to meet up at the north entrance of Galbraith at 9am. A temporary break in the rain Sunday morning also helped to get everyone motivated and out the door. Not having to climb up in the rain sure would be nice. Riding in the rain is one thing, but a 45 minute grind uphill on a 40 lb. freeride bike is no fun at all. And it's made all the worse when you've been using the same wet weather clothing for the last 2 years and it has ceased to be waterproof.

By 9am Henry and I were at the trailhead and a few minutes later David rode up. By 9:15 the rain had started up again was coming down steadily. Agggh! So much for staying dry on the climb up. Henry and I unloaded our bikes and then began to make our way up the hill. Surprisingly, the rain didn't do much to lessen the traffic in. We passed at least 10 runners and cyclists on the way.  I don't think Miranda Trail this busy on a clear day. I don't know what to make of it. There goes the transitioning weather theory. 

We continued climbing Miranda up to the Ridge Trail after the first 15 minutes I got dropped by Henry and David. I have to remind myself in this kind of situation that it's important not to wear myself out on the climb if I planning on hitting jumps later. Bad things happen when I'm fatigued and riding stunts. So, I made it a point to set a reasonable pace and save some energy for the the trip down. I kept chugging along until I got to the overlook on the Ridge. The RIdge overlook is one of the best views on the mountain. You can see the city of Bellingham below, the bay to the west and Canada to the north on a good day. When it's clear of fog,  the view from the overlook is stunning, but this day the rain and clouds were enough to keep even Bellingham which is imediately below hidden beneath us. 

View of Bellingham from the Ridge Trail





Sometime around 10:15 we arrived at what we put in all this effort for...SST. The trail is about a mile down from top to bottom and is on a fairly shallow grade. Most of it's length is made up of singletrack averaging 18 to 24 inches with the width opening and tightening as it curves and berms around trees and rocks. And even though SST is not terribly steep, it has many opportunities for carrying speed. Both natural and man-made rollers make it possible to pump the the terrain for additional momentum. This is good considering that it's often difficult to pedal because of how narrow the trail is and how close fern covered stumps or rocks are to the the trail's edge. And most of these lay at the perfect height to grab a pedal (or your front wheel), haul the bike rapidly to a complete stop and hurl you over the bars. All before you have any possibility of reacting to what is happening to you. One minute your zipping down the trail, a split-second later you're looking up at the sky wondering, "What the hell just happened to me?"

Though I would consider it a jump trail,  you can bypass the jumps if you choose to do so. And it's still fun even if you do. All the jumps have either a go-around or a rollable take-off. But if you do choose to take the jump lines, however, you'll notice that even though they're not the largest jumps on the mountain (most are under 2 feet tall) they are technically challenging. First there is the trail width as I mentioned before, and secondly, most have a turn or obstacle just before or just after the jump requiring at least one (or more!) of the following maneuvers: railing a berm, dodging a tree with the handlebars on landing or take-off or dodging a rock by rotating the crank.

With all this going on I tend to think of riding SST like reenacting the speeder bike chase scene in Return of the Jedi where they're whizzing through the woods narrowly missing trees with every turn, on the edge of loosing control. Every time I ride it, I feel like I'm 10 playing in the woods again. Never sure where I'm going to get the next bruise that I can freak my mom out with, but knowing that it's probably not far off. There are definitely faster trails with bigger jumps on the mountain, but SST's charm comes from the amazing barrage of things coming at you at any given moment. Good fun fun to be sure.

So, after some discussion over who was going first, I dropped into the lead position. Henry followed behind me with David in the back on his hardtail. The rain stopped twenty minutes or so before we dropped in, so that meant rocks and roots on the trail were going to be slick. The wheels were going to break free, it was just a question of when. I've grown to like riding in the wet, the more that I have had to do it. I'm actually starting to enjoy the unpredictability of it. It's not the same as riding on a warm, dry, sunny day but doing it is fun on it's own terms.

The skills you need for riding in the wet are basically the same as dry conditions, there's just less forgiveness screw-ups. Grabbing too much brake or being careless about how you weight the bike can put you on the ground in a hurry. There's a sickening feeling of loosing control that you get, when the tires break free, that tells you that you're going to wreck. In wet conditions, this  happens a lot, so you get used to that feeling of the back wheel breaking free, sliding to the side a few inches, and then biting again. When you develop the confidence to know that the tire will grab, you just have to wait for it. This becomes completely normal and fun. Controlling direction and speed becomes a game of subtle change and response between rider and bike.  Need to turn left? Weight the left grip and right pedal then lean the bike left. After that it's just a matter of believing that the bike will turn. There is, however, frequently a gap in time between rider action and bike response. And somewhere, in this gap of time, is where you find the fun of wet weather riding. Tire sliding, bike drifting, mud churning fun!





















Henry on the leftmost step-up line at Raymond.

Henry on the hip line overshooting the hip in to the G-out, after I told him to brake...a lot. Me: "How did that feel", Henry: "Kind of harsh". Haha! I love understated as always.



Henry doing the same line again. This time with the perfect amount of speed. Nicely done.

Me nosing in on the step-up.

Me on the same jump, doing it right this time.




Saturday, October 23, 2010

Hot Damn! I've got a brand new SX!



After over a year of not being able to get it out of my mind, I finally pulled the trigger on brand new brand new 2011Specialized SX. It took over a year of thinking and the sale of my old fully to make it happen but this past July I broke down and filled out the paper work to pre-order the frame. The SX comes as a frame only and is produced in limited quantities so had to order it early and wait. The expected wait was going to be 5 months! An agonizingly long period of time to wait for a bike that I had been thinking about for at least a year previous. I was resigned to the wait though because I was pretty sure that the SX was going to deliver on the ride qualities that I am looking for. But fortunately, the wait was shortened when I discovered that Specialized had received an order from Taiwan and was holding 8+ frames in stock at their SLC, Utah warehouse. After making a quick call to Matt K at Specialized (inside sales rep), I had a brand new frame ordered, shipped and on the way the following day! Three days later I've got a smallish (bike bike standards) box sitting in front of me And it was only early October, a full two months early. Hell Yeah. Thanks Matt!

Pictures of my freshly unpacked frame.

Close up of shock linkages
So Why did I choose the 4" travel SX? As most people who know me are probably aware, I love dirt jumping. That snappy, responsive feeling you get from riding a hardtail on dirt jumps is what I love but I still like riding trails too. And the thought of having a bike that could do both well is very appealing. The trails here in B'ham, specifically Galby, tend to be tight and twisting because of all the trees and the j.umps tend to have little or no run-in. Negotiating trees, roots and rocks to get into a jump is the norm. And since most of the trails on Galbraith tend to be on a more shallow grade, getting the speed needed to clear some of the jumps can be a bit of a challenge. A snappier bike would certainly make it easier to keep up your momentum. As much as I like riding a 7 inch travel freeride bike on steeper trails it can be overkill on a mellower grade. And considering I prefer the predictability of a hardtail bike when jumping, less is definitely more terms of travel. A big bike, for me, is just to much work pedaling (because I'm lazy) and too hard to pop on the take-off on jumps (like I said, I'm lazy). On less lippy sender jumps that are gravity fed, longer travel is great but on smaller jumps, especially jumps that you have to pedal in to, a big bike just wears me out. The other option would be to use a an aggressive hardtail such as a dirt jumper. I tried that thanks to my friend Peter. He said that the mountain was pretty fun on a hardtail, so on his recommendation I rode my dirt jumper. On the smoother jump trails such as Evolution and Unemployment Line it was really fun. At least it fun was once I got loosened up enough to start letting the brake go. But every now and then, I'd rear wheel case a landing. And Ouch! Really hammer my ankles hard. After that ride, I started thinking that a short-travel full suspension, with dirt jumper like geometry, set up with minimal sag would be the way to go for riding trail and dirt jumps.You'd get the best of both worlds. And that's where the SX comes in. It's a short travel dual slalom bike with geometry similar to my dirt jumper but with a little give in the back just in case you come down hard. There are some other bikes out there that fit that description that I looked at but I settled on the SX for several reasons. 

More to come...


Friday, October 15, 2010

How to Build a Bike Wheel - Part Two, or 3-cross Wheel Lacing Made Easy!


Lacing is the 2nd step in building a bike wheel. Before you start lacing your hub to the rim you've chosen, you will need to to the 1st, which is to calculate spoke lengths. If you haven't done that yet and you don't know how, be patient. I'll be doing a write up on that soon. For now you can have this done by your local bike shop to have this done. (Come see me at Fairhaven!)

Tip: Wheels often need different length spokes for each side. I find it easiest to keep the long spokes on the left (Long on Left) and short spokes on the right anytime I’m building a wheel. It makes it that much harder to slip up and pick up the wrong length spoke by staying in this habit.
 


1)      Disc side up – Start with the rim laying flat on its side, Hold the hub in hand with the disc side up.

2)      Inserting spokes into hub (1st group) - Drop spokes down into the hub’s top (disc side) flange into every other hole. Note: With a 32 holed wheel, you will insert a total of 8 spokes going this direction. The head of each spoke should face out toward the disc side of the hub.

3)      Attach disc side spokes – (a) Locate the valve hole on the rim and run a spoke through the hole to the immediate left of the valve stem hole. Thread spoke nipple on to hold spoke in place. (Optional Step: Lining up the hub logo – This is done for cosmetic reasons, but it is a sign of a wheel builder that knows his stuff. To line up the valve hole with the logo on the hub, choose the spoke inserted into the disc side flange, to the left of the hub logo and run it through the spoke hole to the left of the rim valve hole. When the wheel is completely laced you should be able to see the logo on the hub through the valve hole on the rim.) (b) Attach the other loose spokes to the rim in the same way, spaced so that there is a spoke in every fourth hole. Spokes should be evenly spaced on the rim and should be in a radial pattern and not crossed.) Tip #2: Just start the threads when installing the nipples, don’t tighten too much. Tightening the nipples too far will make it harder to install spokes later.


4)      Flip wheel over to non-disc side.
5)      Inserting spokes (2nd group) - Pick out a hole in the top flange that is just to the right of a spoked hole on the bottom flange. Insert the first spoke into this hole, running it through the flange from outside to inside. Insert the other 7 spokes going the same direction in the flange with a spoke in every other hole. There should be a total of 8 spokes going in the same direction with the head of each spoke facing outward toward the non-disc side of the hub.

6)      Attach non-disc side spokes - Attach the 8 spokes to the rim so that they are parallel with the spokes on the disc-side. Use the holes just to the right of the installed spokes. Attach nipples to hold spokes in place in the rim. 

7)      Twist hub clockwise within the rim.


8)      Inserting spokes (3rd group) - Drop 8 spokes through the bottom flange into the remaining holes. Spokes should run in the opposite direction (from inside the flange to outside) as the spokes previously installed. 

9)      Flip wheel over to disc side maintaining twist between the rim and hub.
10)    Route loose spokes through installed spokes on the same side to get the 3-cross pattern (over-over-under from hub out). Install the spokes into rim eyelet holes just to the left of installed spokes. 

11)    Attach disc side spokes - Attach nipples to hold spokes in place in the rim. Recheck 3-cross pattern on this side. Tip #1: At this point it may be difficult to get enough slack in the spoke to attach the nipple. Jiggle the spokes on the opposite side of the rim to settle the nipples into the rim. Tip #2: Use a spare spoke threaded into the nipple from behind to hold the nipple and keep it from dropping into the rim when threading the nipple onto the spoke.


 


12)    Inserting spokes (4th group) - Drop 8 spokes through the bottom flange into the remaining holes. Spokes should run in the opposite direction (from side the flange to outside the flange) as the spokes previously installed spokes in the flange.
13)    Route loose spokes through installed spokes on the same side to get the 3-cross pattern (over-over-under from hub out). Install the spokes into rim eyelet holes just to the right of the installed spokes. 

14)    Attach non-disc side spokes - Attach nipples to hold spokes in place in the rim. Recheck 3-cross pattern on this side.
15)    Finished! 

Sweet!  At this point, you should have a wheel laced in a 3-cross pattern that is ready for tensioning and truing. And you thought this was difficult.


-mike 

Thanks to Steve Farell for his help on this article. Thanks Steve!